I have to write about this, because it was the most amazing adventure, although I say that about almost every single day. It was such a change to go inland after all the rocky beaches, sandy beaches, black sand beaches, green sand beaches, turtle beaches and the long miles of Big Island.
Have been staying at the HI Hostel near the University of Hawaii Manoa Campus, a beautiful place to study and be hot. Well out of town, it is already quite a level higher and far away from the tacky Mediterranean-ness of Waikiki. I got the 6 bus easily about a mile from the hostel, but never forget here you are in baking heat well over 30 degrees every day. The bus sets you off about half a mile from the Manoa Falls trailhead.
After a quick comfort stop at the Rainbow snack shop, as advised, I lathered up with insect repellent. There was such a distinctively different feel from the Paradise sun baked coastal beauty, this was tropical, untamed, Jurassic almost. I was dripping already and felt like an Amazon explorer out of a movie. And of course the Manoa Valley has been the backdrop for many films and TV features including Jurassic park and Lost. In actuality, the enormous broad leaved, hanging, tall, brightly coloured and poisonous things are all carefully managed by the University and State, although you cannot tell other that there is a car park or two and the Arboretum has labels.
I had determined to do both the Manoa Falls trail and the Lyon Arboretum in the same afternoon so I romped off at a pace. When you are that wet already, there is no point in trying to preserve dignity – just wipe your face with you T shirt and push on. The Manoa Falls trail being the most popular was quite busy ( and it was a weekend) and this on it’s own is not a problem. I have noticed certain types of tourists from different parts of the world, (includes me sometimes) have their own distinctive faux pas. Teenage people who turn up in bikini and flip flops, height of fashion visitors in white linen trousers and pumps or tiny silver or gold backless sandals, the multifamily groups with loads of kids and dogs in tow etc. So they do hold you back a bit. This route starts out like a soggy Sherwood Pines track and turns into a full on technical and very slippery, rocky climb to the falls. So you can imagine if you get stuck on this single track behind any of those groups or individuals there can be some frustration. I come into the category of ‘people who are always stopping to take photos of EVERYTHING’ like they have never seen the light of day. But if you never seen forest like this it is difficult not to. The growth is dense and when the sunlight gets through, emits a beautiful luminescence. I’m sure I got in some people’s way sometimes.
AS mentioned before it’s really slippery and quite steep at the top end of the trail and although there is roped off section, not many people were abiding by it. I was well rewarded when U got to the waterfall. It is breathtaking – not because of it’s size, it’s more because you are looking at something you might associate with the Prisoner of Zenda, or King Solomon’s Mines. It’s tropical, beautiful and surrounded by wildness.
After an uneventful but slightly painful on the knees descent, I reached the gates of the Lyon Arboretum. This is a ‘giant’ botanical garden, but actually more like a national park – it comprises of many acres of rainforest and steep terrain. Some parts are carefully landscaped, while most is completely naturalised. The Lyon Arboretum has its own trail leading to the Aihualama Falls – not so impressive as the Manoa Falls, but far more mystical and secluded – I only passed about 5 people all afternoon.
Without the map, I do think you could get very lost in here, as there are many alternative paths which wind and weave over the mountainside. You could spend a whole day here if you bring a picnic. Anyway, I wanted to share with you some of the astonishingly beautiful and unfamiliar flora that I cam across. And so I have done so. There’s no denying, I felt like a Victorian explorer. This day was challenging, wondrous and just about perfect.