The wildfire smoke has been problematic over the last few days – eaking eastwards with the stagnant weather. It has cast a moody and somewhat grainy aspect to the landscape both urban and rural, with islands, high-rises and mountains alternately looming and disappearing into the haze. Bowen Island has not escaped and the bus ride to Horseshoe Bay got steadily more grey. I guess it might look somewhat tropical under a clear blue summer sky, but as it was today it could be something out of Lost. A grey blue triplet of peaks encompassing the harbour. After waiting for 50 minutes for the 257 Express, and having to stand all the way, the ferry over was a breath of fresh air – but not literally because there are an inordinate amount of particulates in it at the moment. But it was lovely to be sea-borne – there’s nothing like it.
Snug Cove, the harbour area, despite having a slight connotations of a Pirate theme park to it, was very welcoming and I had to try hard to resist all the little sea-side bistros and cafes (but not the market stall with the gluten free muffin, though) and to push on into the island depths. I had a late start so knew I wouldn’t be able to it all, but a coffee was a good start. I headed out to or should I say up – this is very hilly place and I was glad of it – to Artisan Square, a chocolate box cluster of art outlets and a restaurant. But it took 4 minutes to look round and 30 mins to consume a coffee under a shady tree and study a map.
I decided that the Killarney lake expedition would be the most doable with a return ferry in mind and it being a Sunday. I began walking up the Main Road ( think Wrong Turn or Insomnia) which has no traffic. Ironically Bowen Island has signposted legal ‘Lift” stops where you can hitch a lift. I wouldn’t hold your breath though – not on a Sunday anyhow. Quite suddenly as you round a bend after a couple of km, you meet the picnic area of the lake. Its breathtaking – and there begins the prehistoric adventure. The trail hugs the lake at first with pretty little accessible beaches and an abundance of different dragonflies. Trying to snap dragonflies is always a trial but I could not get over the exquisite beauty of these eight spotted skimmers and was disappointed I could not get one under the macro. They were too damn quick. The trail then becomes a little more rooty and natural until you reach the boardwalk which takes you right out into the swamp. You are transported into ta strange carboniferous desolation and primordial luxuriance if I can hyperbolise. It is just silent and beautiful. The trail then rises well up above the lake and becomes quite technical until you drop down again to meet the Killarney Creek main path that heads back to the harbour. There were not many people on this trail unlike Ladybower back home. Everything was older, bigger and more natural.
I took a detour to Angel Falls which was more like Angel Fails unfortunately as it was dry as a bone, but the trip down past the lagoon and Deep Bay was worth another leg. I had walked about 8 miles in all and was glad to get back to Snug Cove and it’s quaintness. This island has a population of just about 3000 and it seems like it might be a perfect place to live, picturesque, clean, unspoilt – if you like that Stepford kind of vibe. I may go back to see more – it’s lovely.